When you surf south of the US border, you feel like you’re coming up for air after being underwater for weeks. The salt on your skin, the thunder of the Pacific in your ears, the warm sun, and the wild energy all around you make it feel that way. When people hear “surfing Mexico,” they picture postcard settings right away. In fact, every part of this vast shoreline has its own unique beauty. A thousand feelings. One hundred different climates. And a lot of taco breaks in between. Go here.
First, let’s talk about Baja. There, the desert and the ocean merge in a harsh, beautiful way. Sand flies off the dunes. Some nights you can hear coyotes. Even now, quality point breaks, especially in the north, feel like well-kept secrets. Waves can be dangerous, especially if you catch a winter northwest wave. If you drive through Baja, you’ll see more wild burros than tourists. Some days, all you have around you are dusty pickup trucks and old-timers who will tell you salty stories if you ask nicely.
The major names start to show up a little farther south and west. Sayulita is a crazy, colorful place that is part fishing village and part party town. For beginners, it has a gentle longboard wave, and for the brave, it has louder peaks. You can rent boards by the hour or by the attitude. From the shore, you’ll hear laughter, and at sunset, the waves shine like they are covered in gold leaf. Take a break with a coconut and watch local youngsters shred circles around you.
Oaxaca. Now we’re talking about thunder. There is a reason why Puerto Escondido is called the “Mexican Pipeline.” This isn’t a wave you can walk on. When that south swell comes in, you’ll see barrels that are big enough for a VW to drive through. Some people have died here, while others have scored rides that they still brag about years later. If you’re not used to heavy beach breakers, you might want to start with a chilled beer and just observe the locals. From where you are on the sand, you will feel the spray.
On the Caribbean side? A lot of people forget about it, but there are some great places to visit around Tulum and Mahahual. Crystal clear, warm like a bathtub, and occasionally playful and tiny, which is great on days when your arms hurt from the monsters on the west coast.
Wave hunters come up with new ideas. Some people carry their boards through jungles where howler monkeys and cicadas make noise. Some people hitch rides with fisherman in the morning and paddle back at night, with pruny fingertips, sunburned faces, and big smiles. The waves are always varied; sometimes they’re smooth, and other times they’re broken up by a strong wind.
You will never run out of burritos, new pals, and, yes, surf stories that you swear are too crazy to be true in Mexico. till the water gives up something even wonderful next time. So get ready for the turmoil, and let the sea wash away anything that’s holding you back. Every wave here is a new chance.